Costa Rica Vacations

With two volcanoes and miles of tropical cloud forest, Braulio Carillo National Forest is close to San Jose (12 miles), but ususally overlooked by tourists in a hurry to get to Monteverde and the “crowd forest”.  If you have driven from San Jose to the Caribbean coast along the main route, you may remember passing through an area of mountains lush, lush, lush with tropical foliage, dripping wet.  This is Braulio Carillo.

For quetzals, toucans trogons, eagles, indeed over 500 species of birds, and the usual Costa Rican mix of mammals – monkeys, sloths, pizotes and maybe an ocelot – there is really no need to travel further.  Every inch of space is covered with plants, including showy epiphytes such as orchids and bromeliads.

There are two ranger stations along the main highway, and each has some good trails.  Another popular trail leads from the town of Sacramento to the crater of Vocan Barva, a dormant volcano, with several crater lakes.

The park is huge, at 21,000 acres (47,000 hectares), with many trails, some of them for serious campers willing to spend up to four days hiking in the mist.  Guides are available through the park or thhrough local lodges.  There is a lot of exploring to be done in this huge, but much-less-frequented cloud forest park.  However, note that this park has an unfortunate reputation for crime.  Always check in at the ranger station before setting out, and consider hiring a local guide – and no not leave valuables in your car. 

Info:  Braulio Carillo National Park is about 20km northeast of San Jose.  Buses stop right in front of the ranger stations.  The main station is just past the southern entrance to the park.  Open Tues-Sun 8am-4pm. $15.  Tel. 261-2619

Busloads of tourists head for the Aerial Tram, just north of the park boundary.  Here you can take pricey cable car rides through the forest canopy (www.rfat.com Tel. 257-5961).

Yes, the name of this place does have a capital ‘S’ at the end of its name!  This research and educational center is run by a Belgian nonprofit organization, and includes a jungle lodge and three interesting attractions.  The botanical garden has over 400 native plants, all neatly labeled, including epiphytes, orchids, ferns and various plants beloved of hummingbirds and butterflies.  There’s also a museum with exhibits on rain forest biology and the indifenous peoples of the region.

Unlike some of its neighbors to the north, Costa Rica doesn’t have ver many Pre-Columbians archeological sites.  Here you’ll find one of the best in the country.  A 15th-century indigenous village has been excavated and partially reconstructed, and there are some cool stones and petroglyphs. 

Info:  Just off the main road near the village of La Virgen de Sarapiqui, about 85km from San Jose.  www.sarapiquis.org Tel. 761-1004.  Rooms in lodge run about $82-116 double.

For most visitors, Costa Rica’s capital is a staging area for trips to the rain forests and the coasts.  However, you’re quite likely to end up staying at least one night in the area, as most flights to Costa Rica arrive late in the day, not leaving enough time to drive or fly to another part of the country.  Why not make a virtue of necessity and have some fun?

Visit the Central Market and a couple of the city’s small museums, and then take a trip to a volcano or a coffee plantation.  In the evening, enjoy the amenities of the most cosmopolitan capital in Central America.

RECOMMENDED PLAN:  Sleep at one of the nice hotels just outside of San Jose, and take day trips to some of the attractions of the Central Valley.  If you have the energy, you can indulge in “multi-tours”, catching two or even four attractions in one day!  Stay in this region no more than a day or two, and then head for the coast or the rain forests.