With two volcanoes and miles of tropical cloud forest, Braulio Carillo National Forest is close to San Jose (12 miles), but ususally overlooked by tourists in a hurry to get to Monteverde and the “crowd forest”. If you have driven from San Jose to the Caribbean coast along the main route, you may remember passing through an area of mountains lush, lush, lush with tropical foliage, dripping wet. This is Braulio Carillo.
For quetzals, toucans trogons, eagles, indeed over 500 species of birds, and the usual Costa Rican mix of mammals – monkeys, sloths, pizotes and maybe an ocelot – there is really no need to travel further. Every inch of space is covered with plants, including showy epiphytes such as orchids and bromeliads.
There are two ranger stations along the main highway, and each has some good trails. Another popular trail leads from the town of Sacramento to the crater of Vocan Barva, a dormant volcano, with several crater lakes.
The park is huge, at 21,000 acres (47,000 hectares), with many trails, some of them for serious campers willing to spend up to four days hiking in the mist. Guides are available through the park or thhrough local lodges. There is a lot of exploring to be done in this huge, but much-less-frequented cloud forest park. However, note that this park has an unfortunate reputation for crime. Always check in at the ranger station before setting out, and consider hiring a local guide – and no not leave valuables in your car.
Info: Braulio Carillo National Park is about 20km northeast of San Jose. Buses stop right in front of the ranger stations. The main station is just past the southern entrance to the park. Open Tues-Sun 8am-4pm. $15. Tel. 261-2619
Busloads of tourists head for the Aerial Tram, just north of the park boundary. Here you can take pricey cable car rides through the forest canopy (www.rfat.com Tel. 257-5961).
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