In a region that includes some of the Western Hemisphere’s poorest nations, Costa Rica’s economy, literacy rate and life expectancy compare favorably with those of so-called “first-world” countries.  Ticos enjoy state-funded medical insurance and a social security plan.

Although neighboring Nicaragua, El Salvador and Guatemala endured bloody civil wars in the late 20th Century, Costa Rica abolished its army in 1948.  President Oscar Arias won the Nobel Peace Prize in 1987 for his help in ending the seemingly eternal civil unrest in the region.

Why is Costa Rica  such a success story?  Everyone has a pet theory, but in the final analysis, there seems to be no secret other than hard work and clean living or, as the Ticos would say, pura vida.

For quetzals, toucans trogons, eagles, indeed over 500 species of birds, and the usual Costa Rican mix of mammals – monkeys, sloths, pizotes and maybe an ocelot – there is really no need to travel further.  Every inch of space is covered with plants, including showy epiphytes such as orchids and bromeliads.

There are two ranger stations along the main highway, and each has some good trails.  Another popular trail leads from the town of Sacramento to the crater of Vocan Barva, a dormant volcano, with several crater lakes.

The park is huge, at 21,000 acres (47,000 hectares), with many trails, some of them for serious campers willing to spend up to four days hiking in the mist.  Guides are available through the park or thhrough local lodges.  There is a lot of exploring to be done in this huge, but much-less-frequented cloud forest park.  However, note that this park has an unfortunate reputation for crime.  Always check in at the ranger station before setting out, and consider hiring a local guide – and no not leave valuables in your car. 

Info:  Braulio Carillo National Park is about 20km northeast of San Jose.  Buses stop right in front of the ranger stations.  The main station is just past the southern entrance to the park.  Open Tues-Sun 8am-4pm. $15.  Tel. 261-2619

Busloads of tourists head for the Aerial Tram, just north of the park boundary.  Here you can take pricey cable car rides through the forest canopy (www.rfat.com Tel. 257-5961).

Unlike some of its neighbors to the north, Costa Rica doesn’t have ver many Pre-Columbians archeological sites.  Here you’ll find one of the best in the country.  A 15th-century indigenous village has been excavated and partially reconstructed, and there are some cool stones and petroglyphs. 

Info:  Just off the main road near the village of La Virgen de Sarapiqui, about 85km from San Jose.  www.sarapiquis.org Tel. 761-1004.  Rooms in lodge run about $82-116 double.

This is probably Costa Rica’s most easily accessible volcano.  You can drive almost to the rim itself and walk the rest of the way on a paved pathway.  You can’t go around the crater more than a short way, but there is a nice observation platform, and there is almost always some bubbly action going on.

Poas is one of the few volcanic craters in the world you can get to without getting out of breath.  It is only a short walk on a nice smooth path from the car park to the crater rim.  You will probably see a few pizotes cadging handouts.  Don’t fall for their pitch:  just keep on walking and try not to let them catch your eye.  There is also a small crater lake you can see after a walk through the forest, but go for the walk itself-the lake is a mild attraction.

Be sure you schedule your trip to Poas for early in the morning, as clouds start to move in and obscure the view of the crater as early as 10am.  The visitor center is worth a look and you can, of course, get a nice cup of coffee.  Try the tamales.  They have the same toucan fridge magnets here they have anywhere, so you may as well get them. 

Info:  The Visitor Center is open 8am-4pm, and has a small cafeteria and souvenir shop.  Entrance fee $7.  Tel. 482-2165.

TIP:  Occassionally the park is closed due to too much bubbly action.  In 2006 Poas was going through a stage of mild activity, blorping out gobs of extremely hot mud and gases in the general direction of the viewing platform usually occupied by gawking tourists.  Call ahead to avoid disappointment or scalding.

Visit the Central Market and a couple of the city’s small museums, and then take a trip to a volcano or a coffee plantation.  In the evening, enjoy the amenities of the most cosmopolitan capital in Central America.

RECOMMENDED PLAN:  Sleep at one of the nice hotels just outside of San Jose, and take day trips to some of the attractions of the Central Valley.  If you have the energy, you can indulge in “multi-tours”, catching two or even four attractions in one day!  Stay in this region no more than a day or two, and then head for the coast or the rain forests.